- Date: Oct 28, 2024
- Starting Location: Malaga, Spain
- Ending Location: Moura, Portugal
- Mileage: 255 Miles
Let’s Get the bike squared away
Getting to IMT Bike
After arriving at the hotel yesterday, we met two folks, Lars and Doug who we discovered would also be part of our Morocco tour. Lars and Doug had also rented bikes from IMT Bike, and they planned on riding around Spain for the next 5 days, while we had chosen to ride for only 4 days.
In any case, they would also be heading to the bike shop to pick up their rentals this morning. So, we agreed on a time, and met them in the lobby. We made the 20 minute trip to the bike shop, and began our journey. Here’s the video of the 4 of us in the cab, meeting for the first time.
Picking up the bike
The folks at IMT bike were super nice. Miguel helped me install the parts that I brought with me from the US. The IMT bike shop opened at 10AM, so there was no chance to get an early start, but we worked in earnest to get the equipment installed, and to hit the road.
The bike that I selected was a 2024 BMW R1200 GS Adventure. This bike is the younger brother of my 2015 LC GSA. And, the 2024 1250, is plug-compatible with most of the parts that I have on my 2015 GSA. That said, the stock 2015 GSA does not fit me very well. In order to get the bike to fit, I had to make 4 separate H/W changes, after which, the now fits me pretty well.
I’m 6’5” tall, and I enjoy riding off road on the GS. So, that means that I’ll be standing on the pegs pretty often when riding off-road. On a standard GS, the handlebars are not high enough, and in order to stand up, I need the distance from the handlebars to the foot begs to be a couple of inches taller. So, I brought my own foot pegs, and a pair of ROX 2” risers. In addition to the height problem, my feet are pretty big, so I also purchased a special shifter lever, which is longer than stock. On my 2015, I installed and adjusted the shifter so that I can more easily rest my foot on the peg, and shift up and down with my toe. Without the shifter, I have to move my foot into an unnatural angle, so that I can get the bike to shift up. Shifting down is easy, I simply mash the shifter lever, and down she goes.
Unfortunately, while I remembered to bring the foot pegs and the risers, I did not remember to bring the shift lever. So, I’m riding the bike and putting up with the difficulty in shifting up. To be fair, while it’s an inconvenience, I can figure out, and I’m able to shift up definitively about 85% of the time. So, 3 out of every 20 shifts are missed gears. Not good, but not too bad.
Installing the parts
Installing the ROX risers, and the ring for the tank bag was really easy, and took less than 5 minutes. The foot pegs are another story. There is a spring that allows the foot-pegs to lift up if the bike is leaned over. This spring can be difficult to get into place, and I would say that it took the better part of 15 minutes to get them installed.
Learning the 1250
The 2015 GSA has a cradle for the GPS, and a simple dash screen. Both devices can easily be manipulated using the jog wheel. But, on the 2024 GSA ,there is a TFT display, which works in concert with the GPS. But, both devices are controlled using the jog wheel. So, learning how to switch the control focus from one device to the other was the first bit of learning. But, the 2024 GSA also has more technology, and if an error is presented to me on the TFT screen, I’m unable to clear the error. I’m forced to ride with the error presented, blocking part of the information on the TFT. My only correction to this problem has been to stop and restart the bike, and wait for the next error. You might think that this would be a problem , but most of the errors that the bike displays have to do with the new SOS system on the 2024 GSA.
This SOS system is designed so that if a rider has a crash, the rider can activate the SOS, or I believe that the bike will automatically activate the system, in the event of a crash. The problem seems to be that the SOS system relies on clear, consistent satellite connectivity, and with each minor interruption in Satellite signal, I’ll see an error. This type of error might happen 2-3 times over a 250 mile journey. So, while it’s not good to deal with this, it’s not the end of the world.
The Start of our journey
Today would be the first day that we’re on a rental bike, and that we’re finding our way across the landscapes of Spain and Portugal. This 4 day adventure to the coast of Portugal is based on a route that I created, based entirely on looking at maps, and performing logical Google searches.
Using my experience from prior trips, I tried to find roads that would be away from the larger highways, and laced with wonderful turns, great views, and a set of experiences that represent these two great countries.
The Ride
Today’s mileage was about 255 miles, and it took the entire day to get to our destination.
The roads of Spain and Portugal were great motorcycle roads. It felt like every road was smooth, had almost no traffic, was laced with rolling hills, and a never-ending ribbon of curves. This ride was really enjoyable, and both Elizabeth and I really enjoyed ever KM that we traveled.
If you love roundabouts, then you’ll love Spain and Portugal. Along any secondary highway, they tend to employ the use of roundabouts, rather than stoplights, exit ramps and overpasses. And, if you’ve never experienced one of these European roundabouts, they’re quite a bit of fun. You get to flick the bike one way, then the other, negotiate the other cars, and crack the throttle when you exit, and are back on the road.
This traffic patterns on this stretch varied from mostly cars, to almost exclusively trucks. Within Spain, most roads had mostly automobile traffic, but once we left Spain, and headed toward the coast of Portugal, things started to change. On these stretches of road, the traffic was over 80% truck traffic. The trucks were wide, and we made good work of passing the trucks with almost no effort.
Anyone that’s ridden a GSA knows that while the bike can go anywhere, it can also accelerate like a scalded cat. These things can accelerate to over 135 km/hr in a few seconds, which allows us to pass these trucks with no drama, and a clear margin of safety. I love this bike!
The end of the ride
As we rode towards Moura, we were concerned that we’d be hit with rain, and that we’d lose the light. Riding in the dark is never preferred, but a hearty rider can and should be able to tolerate it. But, riding in the dark, in a foreign country, through remote areas, or through cities with narrow roads, steep inclines, and cobblestone pavers
And so, with the wind at our back, we charged toward Moura. We finally arrived in Maura at about 5:45, perhaps 15 minutes before sunset. So, we made it. Or did we?
The GPS seemed to have the correct address, but it nonetheless managed to deliver us to a place that was certainly not the De Moura hotel. So, as we tried to work out how to get to the hotel, it was once again, the kindness of strangers that ruled the day. A nice woman tried to explain to us how to get to the hotel, but neither Elizabeth nor I speak Portuguese, so we weren’t able to understand what she laid out as directions to the hotel. So this woman decided to lead us to the hotel.
It was less than 2 minutes to the hotel, but our room was on the 2nd floor, and there was no elevator in this hotel. So, we had to carry all of the Panniers, and all other gear up to our rooms, up 2 flights of stairs. To make matters worse, the panniers did not have a carry handle on top, so each one had to be carried as a bulk object, up these two flights of stairs.
Well, we eventually parked the bike in the courtyard, and tried to lay down for the night. But, right about this time, I was overcome with the chills and a headache.
The chills
I laid in bed trembling, trying to figure out what was wrong with me. These chills sent me back in time to April of 2023, when on a river cruise in Europe, we contracted Covid, and had to spend almost 5 days in our stateroom. These symptoms sure did feel a lot like Covid.
As we laid in bed, I thought about the implications of a trip gone bad. I laid out for Elizabeth that if we woke up in the morning, and I was not feeling better, we would need to turn the bike around, and return to Malaga, cancelling the two remaining hotel nights. I was very concerned, but went to find the rest that I desperately needed.
What would tomorrow bring
At this point, I have no idea whether I’ll be able to continue riding tomorrow, or not. It sure does feel like I have Covid, and if that’s the case, then I’ll need to figure out how to get back to Malaga, and get myself well.
